AUTOMOTIVE DRY ICE CLEANING
Cosmoline, old undercoating, road film, grease and loose scale removed with CO2 dry ice pellets. Non-abrasive, non-conductive, non-toxic and safe on original finishes.
Nothing gets trapped in frame rails, body seams or electrical connectors. The car leaves dry.
Dry ice sublimates to gas on impact. No sand, no soda, no media left behind in crevices.
Safe around sensors, harnesses, brake lines and ECUs. No disassembly required.
Nothing toxic, nothing flammable, nothing to run into the drain or eat your finishes.
HOW DRY ICE CLEANING WORKS
Dry ice blasting is the eco-friendly alternative to sand blasting, soda blasting, and pressure washing. We use compressed air to drive solid CO2 pellets at the surface. Because dry ice freezes the surface on contact, the contaminate shrinks and dislodges instantly. Combined with the kinetic shock of impact and the sublimation of CO2 ice back into gas, the contaminate is then safely removed as the CO2 simply returns to the atmosphere.
The result is a clean, dry substrate that requires no disassembly and leaves no hidden moisture anywhere in your vehicle
Cleans without removing the surface underneath
No teardown, hoses, harnesses and sensors stay put
Ready to coat, paint or photograph immediately
Nothing toxic and nothing to dispose of but the dirt
UNDERCARRIAGE CLEANING
Underbody cleaning is what we do most. Whatever the case, such as a Porsche 911 packed with factory cosmoline, a truck buried under cracked rubberized undercoating, or a restoration project that needs a clean slate to start from, dry ice blasting is the most effective method.
German and European cars left the factory coated in wax-based cosmoline. Decades later it’s a black, sticky magnet for road grime. As a result, dry ice lifts it out of every seam and pinch weld without solvents or scraping.
Cracked rubberized spray, flaking asphalt-based coatings, dealer-applied goop, we take it all off, since that’s the only honest way to see what the frame underneath actually looks like.
Preservation over restoration. We clean chassis, floor pans, suspension and inner wheel openings back to their original finish while never touching original paint, markings or date-coded stampings.
A dry, grit and contaminate-free surface means new paint and undercoating protection to have the best possible adhesion.
PARTS CLEANING
You don’t need a whole car. Bring us components off the bench and we’ll clean them without tank dipping, wire wheels or blasting media that has to be flushed out of oil galleries afterward.
Engines and engine bays
Transmissions and bellhousings
Axles and differentials
Subframes and suspension components
Wheels, brake components, and calipers
Fuel tanks and skid plates
Wiring and electrical connectors
Molded plastic, rubber, and trim
Solid CO2 pellets are accelerated at the surface with compressed air. On impact they flash-freeze the contaminant, which cracks and releases from the substrate, and the pellet turns straight to gas. The only thing left to clean up is the dirt that fell off. No water, no grit, no chemical residue.
No. Dry ice is non-abrasive. It removes the layer on top of the surface, not the surface itself. Factory paint, e-coat, date stamps, part numbers and inspection markings survive the process. That’s exactly why it’s the preferred method for collector cars.
Yes, it’s one of the most common jobs we do. Porsche, BMW, Mercedes and Audi underbodies from the wax-injection era clean up dramatically. We can strip the cosmoline entirely or clean it back to a uniform original look, depending on what you want.
Yes. Cracked rubberized coatings, asphalt-based products and dealer-applied undercoating all come off. This is the right first step if you suspect rust is hiding underneath, you can’t treat what you can’t see.
Absolutely. Engines, transmissions, axles, differentials, subframes, suspension, wheels and brackets. Drop the parts off and pick them up clean. No tank dipping, no media to flush out of oil passages.
A full underbody is typically a full day. Engine bays run a few hours. Individual parts depend on volume and how heavy the buildup is. We’ll give you a realistic timeline with the quote.
Yes, we do mobile automotive work, with two conditions. There is a $1,000 additional road fee on top of the job price, and you must have a lift available at the location. Underbody work simply cannot be done properly on jack stands or a driveway. Parts and engine-bay work on site is easier to accommodate
If it’s a vehicle that sees Pacific Northwest weather, yes. Freshly cleaned bare metal is the ideal surface for a corrosion-inhibiting coating, and doing both in one visit means the coating bonds to clean metal instead of grime.
Send the year, make and model plus what you’re trying to remove. Whether it’s cosmoline, old undercoating, grease, or just decades of road film. Once we start conversation, if you have photos of the underside it would help get a more accurate estimate.
